AN OPEN LETTER FROM THE BISHOP TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
January 1, 2024
Will Shortz and Robyn Weintraub
C/O New York Times Crossword Puzzle
620 Eighth Avenue
New York, NY 10018
Dear Shortz and Weintraub:
My name is C. Andrew “Andy” Doyle, and I am the 9th Episcopal bishop of the Diocese of Texas. As an Episcopal Bishop in Texas and a New York Times subscriber, it is not often that I may speak on behalf of all Texans. However, in this matter, I raise a loud shout from Texas on behalf of our people and from whence the term Tex-Mex finds its locus.
Some will assume that Tex-Mex is a mere combination of Texas and Mexico applied to food. They would be mistaken, as the phrase describing our dear state food wasn't originally used to describe food. It first came into use related to the Texas-Mexican Railway, which ran from Southern Texas in the 1870s. The Mexican government purchased the railroad in 1900 and controlled it until 1982. I even rode on the railroad myself at the young age of 8 – but I digress. Over time, the term Tex-Mex was used to describe our Tejano siblings, Texans of Mexican descent.
I refer you to an article in “The New York Times” dated August 11, 1963, when legendary food critic Craig Claiborne discovered the term and wrote, "In the Mexican border district, a dish of chili knows no season." Though not inventing the word, it is here that the Times first recognized its use to describe what we had been eating since the 1800's. Later, Diana Kennedy published the first Mexican cookbook in which the term Tex-Mex gained even more notoriety. Our own Lisa Fain from my diocese and author of The Homesick Texan, reviewed by the Times in 2011, brings life to Tex-Mex for many across the country - even Texans living abroad. I point all of this out because the term “Tex-Mex” was not discovered by the New York Times but is instead lifted from its original country – Texas. In our state, an unlikely clash of Mexican and Texas cuisines rooted in a mestizaje of people brought forth the miraculous gift of Tex-Mex. From this cultural mestizo, we have tasted Barbacoa, nachos, tortillas, and burritos, which rose in popularity.
The Tex-Mex food group does indeed include tacos. Tacos al carbon was simple ranch food eaten by rancheros for many years, handmade tortillas and beef or chicken. This soft taco was eventually brought to widespread consumption by many, including our own Texas queen of Tex-Mex, Mama Maria Ninfa Rodriguez Laurenzo. She became beloved in the hearts of Texans by teaching us how to eat tacos from the early days of her taco stand – a precursor to today's food trucks. May her memory be a blessing.
I bring all of this to your attention because in the “New York Times” Friday Crossword Puzzle (12/29/2023), the hint provided was "Tex-Mex condiment." The answer was: "Taco Sauce." Let me point out the difficulty with your clue and answer.
First, "Taco sauce" in Ireland is called "burger sauce" everywhere else. "Taco sauce" is a mixture of ketchup, Mayo and sometimes mustard, with a few spices. In America, it's like what they put on In-N-Out Burger. It's never put on Tacos. In Ireland, it has no relationship to Tex-Mex. Furthermore, I discovered that "Taco Sauce" was first made in Longford, Ireland, by a company founded by Albert Reynolds's grandfather and originally called This Awesome Condiment Organization. They changed its name to TACO during the dot com bubble, and it has nothing to do with tacos.
Second, the American version of the term "taco sauce" may find its etymology within the savory original recipes of Emilio Carlos Ortega, the eleventh child of Emigdio and Aria Conception Jacinta, who became the founder of the Ortega Chili Company. He was the first person in California to make “Spanish Chili Sauce” and made it right there in his mother's kitchen at the Ortega family adobe home. That happened in 1897, thus creating the Ortega family's legendary “taco sauce”, which B&G Foods has since purchased. I point out that this is not originally Tex-Mex, for it is from California.
Condiments for Tex-Mex tacos may include guacamole, sour cream, and grilled vegetables, lettuce, onion, tomatoes, chiles and SALSA. There is indeed an enchilada sauce or gravy in Tex-Mex dishes, but that is different.
I know that Taco Bell does indeed pass out "taco sauce" packets which are labeled as such. Taco Bell, I remind you, was founded by Glenn Bell in California. (It is important to note it is fake history to believe Glenn Bell also created hard-shell tacos. These were first created in Mexico and made their way to Texas and California.)
Therefore, I suggest the appropriate hint for the puzzle for Friday should be: "Cali-Mex (or Mexicali) condiment." If the desired answer is to be: "Taco Sauce." If the answer you want is "salsa", then the hint needs to be Tex-Mex condiment. For neither is salsa created by Taco Bell or from California.
You both are much wiser than I am. Full disclosure requires that I confess that doing one of your puzzles takes me 30 to 40 minutes. You may indeed point out that salsa is translated into English as sauce. However, by doing so, you have removed the mix of cultural expression that makes Tex-Mex a unique food group. Furthermore, you blend it with a confusing California history of mestizo food, which deserves etymological respect.
Faithfully yours,
C. Andrew Doyle, D.D.,
IX Bishop of Texas
